Italian Migrants Transform Australian Cheese with Cheddar to Pecorino Revolution
At 90 years old, John Interlandi continues to be an active participant in the Australian cheese industry, defying typical retirement norms. Still working at Europa Cheese’s Pakenham factory near Melbourne, he collaborates with his grandson, Michael, reinforcing a longstanding family tradition in cheesemaking.
Italian Migrants Shape Australia’s Cheese Landscape
The story of John Interlandi is a testament to the legacy of Italian migrants in Australia. His father immigrated in the late 1920s, seeking better opportunities. They settled in Korumburra, south-east of Melbourne, where they initially farmed potatoes before transitioning to dairy farming.
Historic Beginnings
- Year of arrival: Late 1920s
- Initial occupation: Woodcutting and later, dairy farming
- Land cleared: 121 hectares for dairy production
During the mid-1900s, a wave of Italian agricultural laborers settled in Gippsland. They moved to meet the growing demand for dairy products following World War II. With the local economy largely offering processed cheddar, the Italian community craved traditional cheeses like pecorino and parmesan.
Cheesemaking Tradition
John Interlandi began his cheesemaking journey by closely observing his father. When milk prices were low, they decided to make cheese to sustain their family. After his father passed away, John took over the family business, supplying local delicatessens and the migrating Italian community.
The Evolution of Italian Cheese in Australia
Historically, Italian cheese was referred to as “fancy cheese” in Australia, a designation that persisted until the 1950s. Food historian Tania Cammarano notes that Italian cooking gained popularity even before the migration boom. By 1952, Italian cheese was recognized at the Royal Melbourne Show, leading to an increased appreciation for these unique products.
Growth of Europa Cheese
- Year established: 1971
- Initial location: Hawthorn
- Second location: Dandenong
- Current location: Pakenham since 2005
- Production capacity: Up to 4 tonnes per week
John married Jackie in 1962, and together they founded Europa Cheese to produce authentic Italian varieties. The company flourished, eventually relocating to accommodate rising demand. By the 1990s, the Australian food scene had seen a growing enthusiasm for Italian cheeses, including ricotta and grated parmesan.
Current Trends in Cheesemaking
The last two decades have witnessed a renewed interest in local and artisanal products. John Interlandi expresses pride in the resurgence of traditional cheesemaking methods. “Customers prefer genuine local products,” he explains, noting a shift away from imported cheeses.
Legacy and Passion at 90
Even after selling the Europa brand in 2025, John Interlandi remains dedicated to cheese. He emphasizes the importance of quality, stating, “I always try to do the best.” His enduring passion for cheesemaking serves as a reflection of the rich Italian heritage embedded in Australian culture.
As we celebrate the transformation of Australian cheese through the influence of Italian migrants, figures like John Interlandi remind us of the deep connections food can forge across generations and cultures.
