Peaky Blinders: How the Cap Defines the Man

Mo. Basuony

Published: March 23, 2026 12:58 AM ET

The new film adaptation returns Tommy Shelby to the screen. The story shifts his wardrobe to signal emotional change.

Costume choices reflect Tommy’s state

Alison McCosh handled the film’s wardrobe. She worked on seasons four through six and the film Steve.

Tommy is presented as a broken man at the start. He favors warmth and comfort over his former warlike silhouette.

McCosh layered a silk midnight turtleneck beneath a shawl-collar cardigan. The cardigan is hand-finished cashmere and serves as his comfort piece.

In Birmingham, a younger leader has risen. Duke, Tommy’s illegitimate son, is played by Barry Keoghan.

The gang’s style leans younger and looser. Open collars, colorful shirts, scarves, and jewelry replace the old three-piece uniform.

Costume makers reproduced period jewelry from original pieces. Keoghan appreciated that authentic touch.

Tim Roth plays Beckett, who courts Duke’s loyalty. Costuming gave Beckett softer shirts and a calm, teacher-like presence.

Duke is a nihilist rather than a true ideologue. He aligns himself with the treasurer of the British Union of Fascists, drawing Tommy back in.

Tommy’s comeback is staged with his signature ensemble. He re-embraces the razor-blade cap and rich tailoring for his return.

Costume calls this the “I’m Back suit.” The midnight cashmere coat has heavy texture and a waterfall-like drape.

The sequence uses Nick Cave and the Bad Seeds’ “Red Right Hand.” Murphy said the uniform feels like body armor when worn.

The film explores how the cap defines the man for both Tommy and his son. The cap supplies identity, power, and menace in a single gesture.

Tommy and Duke settle a confrontation in a pigpen. The fight soils their expensive suits with real filth.

Cillian Murphy filmed that scene on his first day back. He described rolling in pig excrement and feeling the costume gain weight.

McCosh found it difficult to watch her cashmere coat soiled. The production shot out of sequence and had to dry and duplicate garments.

Prop teams used paint to simulate the dirt on replacement coats for continuity. The original items could not be reused.

The series previously influenced British fashion trends. John Lewis reported flat-cap sales rose 83% between 2016 and 2017.

Waistcoats and long overcoats also saw renewed interest. The franchise has repeatedly shaped street and high-end looks.

The film is now streaming on Netflix alongside the original series. Filmogaz.com will continue coverage of its cultural effects.