Cathy Horyn Reviews Dior and Schiaparelli Couture Collections
During Paris Haute Couture Week, two major collections were showcased by renowned designers Jonathan Anderson for Dior and Daniel Roseberry for Schiaparelli. Both collections introduced distinct artistic visions in fashion, marking significant moments in their careers.
Jonathan Anderson’s Debut at Dior
Jonathan Anderson made waves on his debut as the creative director for Dior. The event took place at Villa Dior, a stunning venue located on the Left Bank. This space is typically used for haute couture shows, providing a fitting backdrop for Anderson’s artistic vision.
- Location: Villa Dior, Left Bank, Paris
- In Attendance: Brigitte Macron, Rihanna, LVMH chairman Bernard Arnault, Jeff Bezos, and Lauren Sánchez Bezos
- Collection Inspiration: Flowers and nature
- Notable Elements: Antique textiles, fresh flowers, and museum-style displays
The collection featured intricate pieces, including a pleated gown that resembled a delicately curved vessel. The garments were spotlighted in full-page ads in major publications like the New York Times and Le Figaro.
A New Direction for Couture
Anderson aimed to bring a youthful spirit to Dior couture. His designs included a blend of soft tailoring and adventurous styles, reflecting a fresh perspective compared to previous collections under Maria Grazia Chiuri. Highlights included:
- Pleated silk-georgette gowns with no inner structure
- A strapless dress embroidered in vibrant cyclamen pinks
- A combination of capes and miniskirt-trouser assortments
Anderson’s work has received positive reviews, with Arnault praising it as a “masterstroke.” The collection balanced artistry, youthfulness, and innovative design.
Daniel Roseberry’s Collection at Schiaparelli
Simultaneously, Daniel Roseberry unveiled his collection for Schiaparelli, which also reflected a playful yet rigorous approach to design. Inspired partly by birds, Roseberry’s collection included stand-out pieces featuring dramatic cuts and embellishments.
- Theme: Emotion in creation, combining joy and aggression
- Signature Look: “Isabella Blowfish” jacket with organza spikes
- Unique Features: 3-D scorpion tails on bustiers and jackets
Roseberry’s pieces drew inspiration from Michelangelo’s art, aiming to create a sensory experience through fabric and construction. The use of vibrant colors and unexpected silhouettes reflected both creativity and a connection to nature.
A Tribute to Fashion Icon Lee McQueen
Roseberry’s designs also paid homage to Alexander McQueen through elaborate details and an appreciation for the animal kingdom. The collection showcased intricate styles, utilizing techniques like hand-dyed tulle for a layered effect.
With both Anderson and Roseberry presenting their vision, this season of haute couture marks a bold step forward for both houses, emphasizing emotional depth and artistic expression in high fashion.
