Legendary Mountaineer Jim Whittaker, First American on Everest, Passes at 97
Jim Whittaker, a Seattle-born climber who helped shape modern American mountaineering, died on the night of April 7. He was 97 and passed at his home in Port Townsend, surrounded by family.
Tributes acknowledged his decades-long service to outdoor communities. Many remembered his generosity and leadership.
Everest ascent and climbing career
Legendary Mountaineer Jim Whittaker rose to global prominence with a May 1, 1963, summit of Mount Everest. He reached the top alongside Sherpa Nawang Gombu in extreme conditions.
Near the summit they ran out of oxygen and continued after their water supplies froze. That ascent brought wide public interest to climbing in the United States.
Roots in the Pacific Northwest
Whittaker grew up in Seattle and was born February 10, 1929. He began climbing as a Boy Scout in the Olympic Mountains and trained on Mount Rainier.
He remained closely connected to The Mountaineers for decades. He and his twin brother helped mentor generations of climbers in Washington.
Industry leadership and ventures
Whittaker served as REI’s first full-time employee and later became the company’s CEO. He helped expand the retailer into a major outdoor brand.
With his twin brother Lou Whittaker, he co-founded Rainier Mountaineering Inc. That Ashford-based guiding service became the largest agency guiding climbers up Mount Rainier.
Recognition and legacy
His 1963 climb earned national attention and recognition from President John F. Kennedy. The expedition was part of a broader U.S. effort on Everest.
Whittaker’s life combined exploration, entrepreneurship, and stewardship of public lands. He often emphasized family and the spiritual side of time spent in nature.
Family and survivors
He is survived by his wife Dianne, to whom he was married for more than 52 years. His sons are Bob, Joss, and Leif Whittaker.
Grandchildren include Adam Whittaker, Tony Whittaker, and Sarah Kanzler. A great-granddaughter, Sophie Whittaker, also survives him.
Honoring his memory
In lieu of flowers, the family asked that donations be made in his name. Suggested organizations reflect his ties to climbing and maritime communities.
- The Mountaineers
- The Northwest Maritime Center
- Washington’s National Park Fund
- Hospice Foundation for Jefferson Healthcare
Fans and fellow climbers continue to recall the impact of the First American on Everest. Filmogaz.com will continue to track remembrances as they are shared.
Many noted how the Passes at 97 milestone marked the end of an era for American alpinism. His contributions will be remembered across the Pacific Northwest and beyond.
