Legendary Mountaineer Jim Whittaker, First American on Everest, Dies at 97

Mo. Basuony

Published: April 8, 2026 5:56 PM ET

Legendary Mountaineer Jim Whittaker, First American on Everest, Dies at 97, his family said Tuesday. He passed away at his home in Port Townsend, Washington.

Historic ascent

In 1963 Whittaker became the first American to stand on Mount Everest’s summit. His climb arrived ten years after Sir Edmund Hillary and Tenzing Norgay made the first ascent.

The achievement brought national attention. It turned the once-shy climber into a public figure in demand for appearances and causes.

Early years and climbing career

Whittaker began climbing in Washington state as a Boy Scout in the Olympic Mountains. He made a career of high peaks, including Everest and K2.

He scaled Mount Rainier more than 100 times. In 1981 he led ten handicapped climbers to Rainier’s 14,410-foot summit, a climb he cited as deeply meaningful.

Connections with the Kennedys

Whittaker became close to Robert F. Kennedy. He served as state chairman for Kennedy’s presidential campaign.

He joined Kennedy on climbs, including a 1965 trip to the Yukon. The Canadian peak was later named Mount Kennedy after RFK’s assassination.

Family and fellow climbers

He shared a prominent mountaineering profile with his identical twin, Lou Whittaker. Lou led the first American expedition to climb Everest’s north face.

Lou Whittaker died in 2024 at age 95. The brothers secured a lasting place in climbing history.

Views on risk and safety

Whittaker often spoke about the spiritual side of climbing. He said the mountains sharpened the senses and offered perspective.

He resisted proposals to mandate electronic locators for climbers. He argued such requirements could erode personal liberty and the mystique of exploration.

Those comments came amid concerns about Mount Hood, where more than 35 climbers died since the early 1980s.