Cathy Horyn Reviews Calvin Klein Fashion Collection
Cathy Horyn recently reviewed the latest fashion collection from Calvin Klein, focusing on the work of designer Veronica Leoni. This collection, showcased in the upscale venue of the Shed at Hudson Yards, aimed to explore the themes of “the cult of the body” and “hedonistic elegance.” Leoni drew inspiration from Calvin Klein’s styles of the late 1970s and early 1980s, intending to transcend the conventional image of the brand.
Key Features of the Calvin Klein Collection
Horyn’s critique suggests that the collection suffers from a lack of clarity and focus. Although Leoni presented an array of designs, including tailored sleeveless suits and unique outerwear, the execution often felt convoluted.
- Sleeveless suits for both men and women with a slim cut.
- Blocky jacket designs, some featuring extended sleeves and intricate lacing.
- A cocoa brown work jacket paired with denim, complemented by an oversized shearling collar.
Leoni’s interpretation of body-conscious fashion appeared misguided, presenting outfits that didn’t resonate with the viewer. Horyn mentioned that several designs mimicked past trends, notably resembling something from Prada’s recent presentations.
Comparative Analysis with Other Designers
In her review, Horyn highlighted how contemporary designers like Marc Jacobs and Maria McManus are favoring more streamlined silhouettes. McManus, for instance, presented thoughtful cuts that embraced the natural form, contrasting sharply with Leoni’s approaches.
Show Highlights and Cultural References
On the same day, designer Sergio Hudson showcased his work, marking ten years in the industry. His collection featured sharply cut suits and elegant dresses adorned with vibrant colors and striking patterns. Hudson’s show was accentuated by a powerful audio backdrop featuring Aretha Franklin.
- Sergio Hudson’s collection included fitted dresses and well-tailored pantsuits.
- Hudson emphasized a glamorous style with rich color palettes, such as deep raspberry.
Designer Insights and Future Directions
Frances Howie of Fforme also presented her collection, drawing parallels with New York socialite culture as depicted in the film *Metropolitan*. Howie’s designs included elements that pay homage to American fashion’s roots while integrating modern aesthetic influences. However, her creations sometimes obscured the wearer’s form, and her styling choices raised questions about practicality.
As these designers unveil their latest collections, they reflect a blend of innovation and tradition, aiming to redefine the landscape of contemporary fashion. Horyn’s insights emphasize the need for clarity and consideration for the wearer’s body in design, a lesson for aspiring fashion creators.
