Cathy Horyn Reviews Chanel Couture at Fashion Week
At Fashion Week, Chanel’s latest couture presentation challenged traditional fashion norms under the direction of creative designer Matthieu Blazy. His approach offers a refreshing take, stepping away from the brand’s iconic tweed suits and elaborate structures.
Cathy Horyn Reviews Chanel Couture
Blazy’s collection sparked conversations with its light and fluid designs, appealing to women of all ages, including those in their 40s and 50s. Rather than presenting an entirely new silhouette, Blazy embraced the classic Chanel shape established by Gabrielle Chanel in the 1920s, focusing on comfort and accessibility.
Innovative Design Philosophy
In this collection, Blazy took a minimalist approach, showcasing garments that felt free and effortless. For instance, a two-piece outfit in sheer red mousseline featured a mid-calf pleated skirt and a matching cardigan, asking the question of whether it was outdated or refreshingly indifferent to current trends.
- A pale-green silk shirtdress with dropped waist intrigued observers with its modern elegance and embroidered coat.
- Blazy was inspired by a haiku about birds and mushrooms, which influenced the vibrant set design.
- The collection’s atmosphere aimed to offer a moment of lightness in today’s complex world.
Inclusivity and Fresh Perspectives
Emphasizing inclusivity, Blazy cast a diverse group of models, moving away from typical runway standards. He expressed admiration for the modern woman, drawing inspiration from a former model in her 50s.
Blazy’s design process was unique; rather than relying on sketches, he created garments directly on models. This hands-on approach fostered creativity and collaboration within the Chanel ateliers, highlighting the team’s craftsmanship.
Standout Pieces
| Design | Description |
|---|---|
| Feathered Headpiece | Featured in a dramatic look alongside a rich red silk crêpe gown. |
| Tank Dress | Adorned with irregular triangles, it showcased a gradient of colors—from pale green to blue-black. |
| Lightweight Suit | A simple tailored black wool suit accredited for its understated beauty. |
As Joan Baez’s music filled the Grand Palais, the collection underscored Blazy’s belief in reinterpreting traditional notions of beauty and elegance. He defines modernity not solely by fashion’s hardness but also through its capacity for sweetness and joy.
In summary, Blazy’s first haute couture collection for Chanel represents a unique blend of classic charm and contemporary relevance, inviting viewers to rethink their perceptions of elegance and femininity.
